PM REAR BELT PULLEY FOR TOURING 2009 TO PRESENT
Performance Machine
#752198
£969.85£872.87
Member£824.37-15%
Sprockets & Chains
939 products
Final drive for Harley-Davidson: chains, sprockets, drive belts, pulleys and complete conversion kits — over 2,700 lines from JT, Afam and Tsubaki alongside genuine H-D belts and pulleys. First fact at the counter: most Harleys from the early 1990s onward are belt-driven, and the belt side of this section covers replacement rear belts, pulleys and guards for them. The chain side serves owners of chain-era bikes (Shovelhead, early Evo and the earliest Sportsters), custom builders converting from belt to chain for gearing choice or a fat rear tyre, and any metric bike in the garage. Chains and sprockets are replaced as a set — a new chain on hooked, shark-finned sprockets wears out in a fraction of the time, and the tell-tale it is all due is a tight spot you cannot tension out. Tsubaki is the chain to pick when you want the best; a one-tooth gearing change costs less here than any engine part.
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Final drive: belt or chain, and everything for both
Harley put a belt on the 1980 Sturgis, had every Big Twin on belts by 1987, and finished the job when the last chain-drive Sportster left the line in the early nineties. This section serves both sides of that history.
Belts: no service interval, one mortal enemy
A Harley drive belt has no scheduled replacement mileage — owners routinely see six figures out of one — but it has a predator: a stone picked up at the pulley. Most belts that die, die young and violently, teeth chunked out by debris rather than worn out by age. So the regime is inspection, not replacement: every service, look for cracks at the tooth roots, missing chunks, frayed edges and anything embedded, and check tension at the loosest spot (the deflection spec is model-specific — look yours up rather than trusting a universal number). A replacement belt is a big job on Touring and Softail models — swingarm or primary out — hence the standing advice to inspect the pulleys at the same time and never fit a new belt over visibly damaged teeth.
Chains: the doctrine is replace-as-a-set
Chain-era bikes — Shovelheads, early Evos, pre-1993 Sportsters — and converted customs live by one rule: chain and both sprockets go together. A stretched chain hooks new sprocket teeth into shark fins within a few thousand miles, and worn sprockets pull a fresh chain out of pitch from the first rotation; the money saved buying only the chain is spent twice over. The tell-tale that the set is due: a tight spot you cannot tension out. JT and Afam both publish proper per-model fitment and dominate the shelf here; Tsubaki is the answer when the question is "which is the best chain".
Belt-to-chain conversions: why, and what it takes
Club-style Dyna builders, stunt riders and big-power engines convert to chain for the shock-load tolerance and for gearing freedom — with a conversion rear sprocket, a gearing change is a cheap sprocket swap instead of a primary-out pulley job. The shopping list is consistent: a 530 chain, a transmission front sprocket matching your gearbox spline, and a rear sprocket that bolts where the pulley was. The one split that catches people: five-speed and six-speed Cruise Drive gearboxes (from 2006 on Dyna, 2007 elsewhere) take different front sprockets — order by gearbox, not by model year folklore. The gearing arithmetic: one tooth down at the front pulls like three up at the back.
Final-drive diagnosis
| What you find | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Chunked or missing belt teeth, stone embedded in the pulley | Debris strike — the number-one belt killer | New belt; inspect pulleys, replace if teeth are marked |
| Belt edge fraying against a pulley flange | Alignment or tension off — common after wheel or lowering work | Re-align and set deflection to your model's spec before condemning the belt |
| Chain tight spot you cannot adjust out | Pin and bushing wear ("stretch") — the set is finished | Chain and both sprockets together, never chain alone |
| Hooked, shark-finned sprocket teeth | Sprockets run past their life, often by a new chain on old teeth | Full set again — and check chain line if it wore one-sided |
| Want quicker acceleration without engine work | Stock gearing favours relaxed cruising | One tooth down front or two-three up rear — the cheapest performance change on the bike |