PRIMO'S BRUTE-IV OPEN BELT DRIVE KIT
Rivera Primo
#237446
£3736.72£3363.05
Member£3176.21-15%
Clutch & Primary
1,653 products
Clutch plates, springs, hubs, primary chains, tensioners, compensators and belt drives for Big Twin and Sportster — around 1,200 lines in stock. Two symptoms bring most riders here. A clutch that slips when you roll on in top gear needs friction plates and springs — TRW and Barnett both do complete kits, with Barnett's Kevlar plates the upgrade for hard-ridden engines. And the heavy clunk at start-up or low revs on Twin Cam and Milwaukee-Eight motors is the compensator asking to be replaced — a known wear item, not a mystery noise. Remember a Big Twin runs its clutch wet inside the primary chaincase, so plate life depends on running a primary-safe oil, and the derby gasket you will disturb doing the job lives in Gaskets & Seals. Belt Drives Ltd. covers open belt-drive conversions for customs; Rekluse auto-clutches sit at the exotic end.
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Showing 1–48 of 1,653 DRIVE LINE-CLUTCH
Clutch
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Clutch & primary — the left side of the engine, explained
Most of the noises a Big Twin makes at idle come from the primary chaincase, and the trick is knowing which ones are wear items asking for parts and which are just a Harley being a Harley.
The compensator: the noise everyone eventually Googles
A heavy clunk or rapid "machine-gun" rattle from the left side at cold start-up is the compensator — the sprung shock-absorber between crank and primary chain — and on 2007–2010 Twin Cam Big Twins it is practically a rite of passage. Harley's own answer was the Screamin' Eagle high-torque compensator kit, and it remains the standard fix — it outsells every other line in our Screamin' Eagle section. Milwaukee-Eight compensators complain far less often, but a knock when letting the clutch out on a 2017–2019 M8 deserves the same inspection. Treat the comp as a wear item, not a mystery: it gets worse, and the debris it sheds ends up on your primary magnet.
The auto tensioner that tries too hard
From 2006 (Dyna) and 2007 (Softail and Touring) to 2017, Big Twin primaries carry an automatic ratcheting chain tensioner — and its known habit is ratcheting tighter under engine braking and never backing off. A primary chain with zero free play whines, and the load goes straight into bearings that cost far more than the fix. That is why the manual-tensioner conversion is one of the most popular quiet upgrades in this section: set the free play yourself at each service and the problem is gone. Earlier Big Twins had a manual shoe adjuster all along; check its shoe at fluid changes, since the lining is another consumable.
Clutch upgrades: match the fix to the torque
A clutch that slips on a top-gear roll-on gets fixed in escalating steps, and the honest advice is to stop at the first one that matches your engine. A stock or Stage 1 bike usually just needs fresh plates and springs. A cammed or big-bore Twin Cam is where the stiffer diaphragm spring or a Barnett extra-plate Kevlar kit earns its money. Beyond that live the billet performance clutches and Rekluse auto-clutches — superb, and overkill on anything stock. Remember the wet clutch shares its home with the primary chain, so the fluid in the chaincase is part of the clutch system: wet-clutch-safe oil only, never a friction-modified car oil.
One UK-specific note: 2017–2018 Milwaukee-Eight models were recalled for a hydraulic clutch actuator that could lose pressure and refuse to disengage. On a used import of those years, it is worth confirming the recall work was done before blaming the clutch pack for creep at the lights.
Sportster owners: the turkey call
The Evo Sportster's signature clutch complaint is a rattle at idle with the lever in — the famous "turkey call" — plus increasingly elusive neutral. That is the clutch release bearing and ball-and-ramp mechanism behind the derby cover, not the plates, and it is inspectable without pulling the primary cover. Cheap part, distinctive noise, satisfying fix.
Left-side noises and what they want
| The noise or symptom | The usual culprit | The part |
|---|---|---|
| Clunk / machine-gun rattle at cold start (2007–2010 Twin Cam esp.) | Worn compensator ramps | High-torque compensator kit — the established fix, stocked here |
| Primary whine, chain with no free play (2006–2017 Big Twin) | Auto tensioner ratcheted too tight | Manual tensioner conversion, free play set at services |
| Revs flare on a top-gear roll-on | Clutch slipping — plates glazed or spring outmatched by the engine | Plates + spring; extra-plate kit on tuned engines |
| Rattle at idle with the lever pulled in (Evo Sportster) | Clutch release bearing / ball-and-ramp — the "turkey call" | Release bearing kit, behind the derby cover |
| Metal flakes on the derby magnet at a fluid change | Something upstream shedding — usually compensator or tensioner shoe | Find the source before it reaches the oil pump; do not just wipe and refill |
| Creeps at lights, hard to find neutral (2017–18 M8) | Possibly the recalled hydraulic clutch actuator | Confirm recall completion first — free at a dealer — before buying parts |
Common questions
Can a Drag Specialties Extra Plate clutch kit handle more torque than a Screamin' Eagle clutch upgrade?
At Stage 1 and Stage 2 power levels both kits are meaningfully stronger than stock — the additional friction plate in the DS kit adds clamping area and back-to-back performance is similar in that range. The SE kit has the edge on warranty clarity when dealer-fitted; the DS kit costs less. For Stage 3 builds and above, neither kit addresses spring pressure, which is the real torque limiter at that power level.
How do I check whether the Harley primary chain needs adjusting?
With the bike on the side stand and the engine cold, remove the derby cover and check mid-span deflection on the primary chain — Harley spec is 5/8 to 7/8 inch on most Twin Cam and Milwaukee-Eight models. A slack primary clunks on startup and when rolling off throttle; too tight and it loads the front bearing. It's a 20-minute job and one of the most skipped items at annual services.
Can I use standard gear oil in the Harley primary chaincase?
No. Harley specifies primary chaincase fluid (or Syn3 for the synthetic option) because the wet clutch needs a lubricant that won't cause the plates to grab. A JASO MA2-rated gear oil of the type used in the gearbox will cause clutch chatter in the primary. Use the correct fluid — the saving over a few pounds isn't worth the noise and wear.